“Phew! That piece of fish was as big as a surf board. I can’t believe I ate the whole thing and most of the chips too.”
This was perhaps our fourth or fifth visit to Gibraltar, The Rock, and as usual we had just finished a late lunch at Roy’s Cod Plaice (sic) in the main square. It was almost a ritual.
Another ritual was to walk to the corner where this jolly, Cockney fellow sold inexpensive watches. The first time we met he offered me one of his $10.00 watches. I told him I had just bought one in a store just up the road. “Hahah, I bet you paid a lot more for it and it tells the same time.” Everyone laughed. Again we listened to his spiel before buying another $10.00 watch. But now it was time to return to our ship.
Too full, read lazy, to walk to the shuttle service pick up point, we hailed a cab and requested to be taken to the pier. Immediately, and as is his norm, Bert started a conversation.
“Where do you think we come from?”
“America”
“No, no! We are Canadians but I want you to guess where we were born”. After a few tries Bert told our driver he was from the Netherlands then asked him: “Where do you think my wife was born?”
The driver smiled and said: “America”. A laugh and then: “Wrong again. My wife is from Jamaica.”
“Jamaica! Jamaica! Do you know the Papine Market?” I looked at him in amazement. “Of course, I do. How do you know it? Have you been there?”
“No, my lady. My mother was an evacuee to Jamaica during World War II. She lived in Gibraltar Camp and every Saturday she would go to shop at the Papine Market. She always talked about her time in Jamaica, about the food, the fruits, the wonderful, kind people. She loved it.
There were tears in his eyes as he spoke of his mother who had died recently. He refused our fare. He kept holding on to my hand and shaking Bert’s hand for a long time.
A year later I was introduced to Dr. Diana Cooper-Clark, a Professor at York University and Jamaican by birth. We bonded immediately. It happened that Diana was in the middle of doing research on Gibraltar Camp, Jamaica’s role in the Holocaust and the Jewish refugees, most from Poland and the Netherlands who were housed at the Camp.
The recently published (2017) Dreams of Re- Creation in Jamaica: The Holocaust, Internment, Jewish Refugees in Gibraltar Camp, Jamaican Jews and Sephardim, is the result of Diana’s more than 18 years of meticulous research and her commitment to bring this little known piece of Holocaust history to light. It is at once a paean to her Jamaican background, a lifeline for the survivors, education for Jamaicans and the world, a moment in history captured for posterity and recorded with love and respect for the survivors, their descendants and the Jamaicans who enfolded them in love during a terrible time in history.
Dr. Cooper-Clark took some survivors and descendants to Jamaica for a reunion in November 2016. Yes, they visited Papine Market, the camps and St. Andrews Girls School, one of the schools the children attended courtesy of the Jamaican government and the generosity of Jamaican Jews. She tells of the many tears shed as they remembered. Observe Diana as she talks of the reunion and you can see this is one moment in her life forever indelibly engraved in her heart.
The Meander: Serendipity? Coincidence? I do not know. Gibraltar Camp is now part of the Mona Campus of the University of the West Indies, Jamaica. Many students have gone to lectures at Gibraltar Hall, have walked Gibraltar Lane and Path have seen the old ruins, remnants of the little city on the banks of the Hope River without knowing their import. Diana has given face and substance to the place, the buildings, the people, and the times. This is history with heart.
Just one more thing for me to do to close this particular circle: I will be sending a copy of Diana’s book to the John Mackintosh Hall Library – the only public library in Gibraltar. Who knows? Maybe that taxi driver will see it and read it and fill in the gaps of his mother’s story.
Of course, I remember you. I also know how you found this as my cuz has already told me.
Glad to be in touch and I hope I will see more comments from you on other posts.
Diana’s book is a real revelation.
Great, Paula. Even if there are no comments from me, I’ll be following and reading through. I am finding it interesting.
It’s always a thrill to be able to say, “..oh I know that person…” and when that someone you know, is doing something that we are proud of.. more excitement.
Some of us do get our tests in resilience and faith, at the stage of our life that we manage it; and must conclude that we are serving our purpose in life.
I have often used the words, with which you are familiar, and have been accredited to Mother Theresa, as comforting ones, at appropriate times…”Lord, I know you promised you wouldn’t give me more than I can bear, but I wish you didn’t trust me so much.”
I do hope you are strengthened by that thought.
Thank you Earle and know that quote is one of my favourites. There are times I have questioned that trust and wondered: “Why me?” Then soon I realize that is one question that has no answer. Now I ask for grace and strength and find both in the most interesting ways.
Hi Paula,
It was the mid-1960s when I entertained the thought of becoming a land surveyor, and our initial courses were held in the already, very old wooden buildings, part of Gibraltar Camp, on the U.W.I. Campus.
There was an arrangement between the University and the Gov’t of Jamaica, that the Survey Dept. would carry out surveys for them, since their students were being trained on the campus.
We were aware of some of the history, but no details such as you have indicated are in Dr. Cooper-Clark’s book.
( You have indeed had a very interesting and challenging life.
I am sure you will recognize who l am, and will probably not be surprised that l heard about you.
I do hope we could connect, via any of the links available.
My e-address has been listed and my whatsapp is my mobile phone #, 876-818-1609😊